Quote from: PJ Runnells on Mar 01, 2026, 04:40 PMThanks, Ron. It's been fun. Have about 280 miles on it now saving up to get some scales to get it dialed in been reading the thread on that, will probably have questions at some point. Thanks again Ron dreams can come true

I'm about to buy my first set of scales too! Have been lucky enough to this point to have someone around me who has a set, but you know what they say about once you borrow it twice.

Idk what your plans are for alignment strategy, but I am trying to make it to where I can do it accurately by myself. Rolling the car on and off of a ramp setup to allow the suspension to settle isn't something I'll be able to do by myself. My first thought was slip plates under all 4 corners, or do the front only with the rear scale pads leveled to match the additional height of the scale pad. They're pricey and now that you have slip plates, what else can you use them for other than alignments...not much.

Second thought is hub stands. I've always wanted a set. So many uses! To do what we need, they need to able able to move freely while lowering the car back onto the scales after making a change. Hub stands vary in price, wildly. If its something you're interested in, look around. I found several options. The parts that are important to me are the ability to easily move for measurements. Being able to sweep caster is very important and seems to be something that not all of them look like they can do well. One I saw that looked to be on a nice set of rollers didn't include caster as something that could be measured.

I was looking last weekend and found an inexpensive set that might check all the boxes - they're a DIY, and not height adjustable, so calculations will have to be made while measuring ride height, but....they look sturdy and seem like they would move freely with minimal force. They have an option for casters or ball transfer bearings. I opted for the ball transfer bearings and they come in under $1k for all four corners. The next setup I like is around $1600. If I can get repeatable accuracy with a little effort I'm down for saving a few dollars. I'm waiting for all the component to arrive, if you're interested I can offer feedback once I get them in and assembled. DM me for a link if you'd like to look.

Quote from: Andreas Schlachter on Mar 04, 2026, 04:58 AMWill the rear axle setting remain as is? I switched from a locker to a Gleason differential this winter.

Your rear axle valving is not bad. That's not an issue. The front is out to lunch.

Quote from: Andreas Schlachter on Mar 04, 2026, 04:58 AMHi Ron, thanks for the detailed answer.
I need to read it several times to understand it 🙃.
Two questions: Is my rebound generally too harsh, or is it just the curve that's bad?
If I understand correctly, I need a different curve up to IPS3 and then a linear one after that?

Will the rear axle setting remain as is? I switched from a locker to a Gleason differential this winter.

Thanks a lot.

It is the curve that is bad. Your front rebound valving is linear. It needs to be digressive.

You don't have too much rebound.  But due to the linear curve, you have too much for bumps & not enough for tie down or grip.

Hi Ron, thanks for the detailed answer.
I need to read it several times to understand it 🙃.
Two questions: Is my rebound generally too harsh, or is it just the curve that's bad?
If I understand correctly, I need a different curve up to IPS3 and then a linear one after that?

Will the rear axle setting remain as is? I switched from a locker to a Gleason differential this winter.

Thanks a lot.

So converting your graph to SAE numbers, that we are about, looks like this:
*All numbers are interpretive of a line graph & may be off a few pounds.

Compression Red Line:
0 IPS = 0#
.5 IPS = 25#
1 IPS = 50#
3 IPS = 80#
5 IPS = 110#
10 IPS = 155#
20 IPS = 250#

Rebound Dark Line:
0 IPS = 0#
.5 IPS = 60#
1 IPS = 120#
3 IPS = 215#
5 IPS = 295#
10 IPS = 470#
20 IPS = 800#

You asked for my feedback.  Here goes.

A. The shock is almost linear. It has a small digressive action at 1 IPS (25mm) on both sides (compression & rebound).

B. Linear is good on the compression side. Your slight digressive action at 1 IPS (25mm) on the compression side is also fine.

C. The valving forces all up & down the compression valving is good. It is similar to what we run in our shocks. My compression valving is about 30% softer than yours, but yours will work fine.

D. The almost 100% linear valving on the rebound side, in this case for a front shock with significant rebound valving is bad. Very bad. The rebound side of your valving needs to be very digressive, like the example below.



You'll notice in the shock graph above:
1. When I adjust the shock rebound valving (with a knob or dial on the shock) I am adjusting the the valving PRIMARILY 3 IPS & below.
2. No matter where I adjust the shock rebound valving (with a knob or dial on the shock) the shock valving above 3 IPS doesn't change much.
3. The Digressive action happens just after 400# of rebound. That is where the valving curve "blows off" or "kicks over" and doesn't gain much force with additional piston speed.
4. The entire range of adjustment is 575#-590# @ 5 IPS & 595#-610# @ 10 IPS. The goal of this is to prevent the front wheels from skipping over undulations from being too stiff.

Your shock rebound valving is stiff in the wrong area of usage. We want high rebound at lower speeds to increase grip. But your shock is soft on rebound down at lower shaft/piston speeds. You are giving up grip. 

What you need are Linear/Digressive pistons ... linear on compression & digressive on rebound ... to achieve much higher rebound force at 0.5 IPS (12mm) up to 3 IPS (75mm).

Whether you add high Zero number, depends on your suspension strategy.  You should read all of this thread & get back to me on here. Methods & Strategies to Increase Overall Grip

Frankly, if you only run road courses, you'll benefit (go faster) from more agressive rebound valving than shown above. That is our AutoX valving. Our Track Car valving (for road courses) looks like the graph below.

First, I moved this topic here, since this is where I have all my shock information.

Second, thanks for saving me the work to convert the math.

Third, refer to Topic, Methods & Strategies to Increase Overall Grip, reply #5, section #24 of the topic.  The first image & text refer to areas of reading shock dyno graphs.

Here is that image & text.



Regarding the Dyno Graph Sheet Above:
Previously, I didn't share anything about the fourth & most important area of shock valving. That is the Zero to 1 Inch Per Second range of shock travel. That is actually the final frontier of shock tuning. That is where we find the last little bit of grip to beat our competitors. You can see why I didn't share before. Now I'm willing.

The red, blue & green circles are still accurate. Let's just add a 4th area, in between the red & blue, where we work on grip on relatively smooth surfaces. I'll refer to is as the 0-1 IPS area of shock piston travel.

So now we have 4 areas of focus on shock valving:
#1 - Zero Number, which is our tie down force
#2 - 0-1 IPS, which is our grip on relatively smooth track surfaces
#3 - 1-3 IPS, which is our grip on average track surfaces
#4 - 5-10 IPS, which is the force we see from typical race track bumps.

There could be a 5th area of focus, if you're jumping curbs on track. That would be the shock shaft & piston speeds we see above 10 IPS. 

Quote from: PJ Runnells on Mar 01, 2026, 04:40 PMThanks, Ron. It's been fun. Have about 280 miles on it now saving up to get some scales to get it dialed in been reading the thread on that, will probably have questions at some point. Thanks again Ron dreams can come true

Thanks for the kind words. When you get the car ready to scale ... or on the scales ... reach out & let's discuss what we're seeing & what you want.

And the last Picture is the Rear

Hi Ron,
here are the specs in Us

Thanks, Ron. It's been fun. Have about 280 miles on it now saving up to get some scales to get it dialed in been reading the thread on that, will probably have questions at some point. Thanks again Ron dreams can come true